Full service walkthrough 2.0L

From changing bulbs to topping up your fluids.

Full service walkthrough 2.0L

Postby JasonX611 » Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:36 pm

A full service walkthrough on my Gen 3.5 2.0L.

First off get the car jacked up & on axle stands on the front end.

OIL FILTER:

I always leave the car idling until the engine is warm to help the oil drain out, then remove the engine filler cap. When underneath the car there is a small plastic cover under the oil filter held on with 2 x 10mm bolts. (these snapped on mine so I haven't put the cover back on)

Get a bucket or old tub underneath the engine sump plug & remove the plug (17mm). When this is finished draining replace the plug, you should have a new seal ring but if not turn the old one over. Tighten the plug with a spanner, you should just nip it up not too tight. <-

Then place the bucket under the oil filter & remove it. If it is too tight to remove by hand then stab it with a screw driver for leverage (make sure the new filter is right first or you're buggered)

When fitting the new filter apply a bit of oil to the rubber seal, tighten it by hand only do not use any tools.

Fill with oil as specified in your owners manual (2.0L = 4.0L of oil) Then start it up & check the sump plug & filter for any oil leaks.

AIR FILTER:

This is in the large black box under the bonnet on the right hand side, push the 3 clips off with a screwdriver & replace the filter, making sure that the hinges line up at the back.

POLLEN FILTER:

This is behind the glove box. Remove 6 x phillips screws, 3 in the glove box, 3 under it in the footwell. Then just pull the glove box down. Unclip the black cover shown in the photo & replace the filter.

SPARK PLUGS:

Get the engine very hot. Remove the engine cover 4 x 10mm bolts. Remove the HT leads & pay attention to their positioning, do not mix them up. The numbers are wrote on them if you do though. Then remove all 4 plugs from their recess. If they feel really tight once you start removing them then keep winding them in & out with the ratchet very slowly until eventually they come out. Place the old ones next to the new ones & check the gaps on the plugs. They should be set from manufacture but if any are too wide or close then adjust them carefully with a flat blade screw driver. Fit the new ones with a small amount of copper grease to the threads & tighten to 28nm or by hand you should wind them in with your fingers then when it goes right use the spark plug wrench to go 1/4 of a turn & you should feel the washer compress.

Plug the HT leads back in after applying a small amount of WD40 down each lead. Start the car to check for misfiring or rough running. Rev it up slowly to 3000rpm to check for smooth running.

Also while you're at it spray a bit of WD40 over the throttle cable, door hinges, locks, bonnet catched, boot lock & anything else that moves tbh!

Any questions feel free to ask & I'll try to help you out but this is all stuff anybody is capable of & buying the parts from a motor factor or ebay is better than using halfords anyday.

Hope this helps!
Attachments
thrott.jpg
WD40 everything!
plug2.jpg
Plug gaps. The ones I removed were the original ones & the point is very worn out.
plug1.jpg
HT leads
pollen 2.jpg
pollen filter out
pollen.jpg
pollen filter cover
glove.jpg
Glove box out
air filter.jpg
AIR FILTER
plug.jpg
ENGINE OIL SUMP PLUG
oil filt.jpg
OIL FILTER
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Re: Full service walkthrough 2.0L

Postby Ricardo66 » Sun Mar 30, 2014 10:47 am

Hi thanks for the walk through really informative but would like to make a couple of suggestions to your piece on spark plugs

SPARK PLUGS:

Get the engine very hot. Remove the engine cover 4 x 10mm bolts. Remove the HT leads & pay attention to their positioning, do not mix them up. The numbers are wrote on them if you do though. Then remove all 4 plugs from their recess. If they feel really tight once you start removing them then keep winding them in & out with the ratchet very slowly until eventually they come out. Place the old ones next to the new ones & check the gaps on the plugs. They should be set from manufacture but if any are too wide or close then adjust them carefully with a flat blade screw driver. Fit the new ones with a small amount of copper grease to the threads & tighten to 28nm or by hand you should wind them in with your fingers then when it goes right use the spark plug wrench to go 1/4 of a turn & you should feel the washer compress.

The tightening torque setting is excellent as many people over tighten spark plugs

I have found this on gaps, they recommend NGKBKR5es-11 or Champion RC10YC4 but I've fitted Bosch ones from my local motor factor, as you say a lot better place to buy your service items from

I believe Euro car parts will deliver deliver when ordered on-line?

The only issue i have is the use of WD40 its not good, i prefer to use a white spray grease to lubricate things like the throttle cable and door hinges as it is longer lasting, maybe a silicone based spray or some thing for cleaning the plug leads would be better?

I believe WD40 is a light penetrating oil that maybe ok for driving out damp etc but dries of and can dissolve some soft alloys often found in cars

Just trying to help

Plug the HT leads back in after applying a small amount of WD40 down each lead. Start the car to check for misfiring or rough running. Rev it up slowly to 3000rpm to check for smooth running.

Also while you're at it spray a bit of WD40 over the throttle cable, door hinges, locks, bonnet catched, boot lock & anything else that moves tbh!
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Re: Full service walkthrough 2.0L

Postby Scafell » Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:49 pm

Never tighten the spark plugs to the hot engine head! Wait until it's cool. Tighten to the specs/according to the manual - then undo them half-way and repeat the process. Why? Compressing the washer is not so obvious, therefore it is worth to do the job properly. If you don't believe me - use the torque wrench and compare when you 'finish' tightening in both scenarios.

Similar thing applies to the oil change. Drain when it is hot, but don't pour the fresh, cold oil into the 88 Celsius engine. Head is made out of aluminium, block is usually a cast iron. Don't test your headgasket like that..

And two more things re spark plugs - never stress them. If a guy at the local shop throws them on the counter - ask for another set.
After fitting the sparkplugs, start the engine and allow it to reach its normal temperature. For unknown reason this 'seasoning' prolongs their life.
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Re: Full service walkthrough 2.0L

Postby mnemonic » Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:35 am

Scafell wrote: For unknown reason this 'seasoning' prolongs their life.

It's exactly that. Seasoning. Same as what you do with new cast iron stoves or cookware. ;)

For those with no torque wrench:

Another useful tip I've found with re-inserting plugs is to fit them into a length of garden hose first, and use that to introduce them into the plug wells. Not only does that make cross-threading impossible (the hose slips if the thread match is incorrect) but it allows you to screw them in all the way to the washer. A 1/4 turn 'nip up' with the ratchet is all thats required after that.
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Re: Full service walkthrough 2.0L

Postby Mr Tuscan » Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:14 pm

Interesting and informative read :D
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