I finally managed it! I have fitted my LED DRL's and the sense of achievement I have is fantastic.
Its been a steep learning curve but I have learnt some things about car electrics now. Although I am still mystified by most of it.
Sorry if this goes on a bit or is too much info but I knew bugger all about how to do this myself so I hope this helps those who are also struggling. If you need any more info the please get in touch.
Here's what I bought:
1. LED DRL's from eBay - An unexpected purchase as I had already bought some for £25 from Halfords but I wasnt keen on them so I found these ones for £4 and they work briliantlyhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-48CM-Flexible-Linear-Waterproof-LED-Strip-Daytime-Running-Light-XENON-WHITE-/250943608154?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
2. Next I got a DRL Control module, also from eBay. These put the whole setup much closer to being legal as when wired correctly they come on with the 2nd turn of the igition key (ACC) and when sidelights or main lights are switched on they turn off.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRL-Daytime-Running-Light-Relay-Car-Control-On-Off-Auto-Switch-12V-CE-UK-Legal-/251201670493?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123
3. Buy some bullet (male and female) connectors - I used some red 5amp ones and some cable lock connectors. I bought a box full from QD for a couple of quid
4. Multitester - you will struggle without this. Borrow one from a friend or make a trip to Maplin.
5. Very strong double sided adhesive strips or appropriate glue
Here's what I did:
1. Test your lights - Just put the copper coloured connection of the LED light to the positive of your battery and the other end to the negative.
2. Test the DLR Control module - Connect your LED light to one pair of positive and negative, then put the fused positive and negative of the DLR module to the battery terminals. You should hear a click from the DLR module whenever you make a connection
If everything is working then continue...
Small but important step - Cut about 8-10 inches off the yellow cable of the DRL module. You'll need it later.
3. Remove your front drivers side wheel - it makes access to the wheel arch much easier. You may be able to jack up the wheel enough to give clearance above it to work without removing it.
4. Remove the fuse cover under the steering wheel
5. Remove two screws that secure the plastic panel under the steering wheel (dont know what its called, sorry) then pull sharply to release the panel
6. Have a look for the cables that come from the ignition barrel. I think there are about 3 red and two pink. One of these reds is the ACC (I Hope!) and you'll have to shave a bit of insulation from one to test.
Turn the ignition off.
Using your multimeter clip the negative using a crocodile clip to the screw that secures the drivers door. Make sure it has bare metal to connect to or you wont get a reading. Now touch the positive to the bare wire you just stripped of. Do you have a 0 reading? Good! Now turn your ignition key once and test again. If there is still no reading then turn the key again to the ACC setting and test again. Hopefully your'll now get 12v. If not put a bit of insulation tape around the stripped wire and try another red.
Continue until you find the one you want.
7. Once you have found it test it against your DLR and connected LED light. It should be off when the ignition is off and should come on when you turn your key twice to the ACC.
So far so good
8. You need to find one of the cables going to your sidelight. Unscrew the protective cap behind the sidelight and identify the cable. If your not sure then switch your sidelights on. I drilled a small hole through the protective cap so I could pass the cable through it. Using a cable lock connector join the yellow cable from the DRL module to one of the sidelight cables.
Test the connection with your DRL and LED light by switching on the sidelights, if the LED lights go out then well done. Screw the protective cap back on the lights.
9. I found the easiest way to run a cable through the bulkhead was to bypass it through the drivers front wheel arch. With the wheel off or jacked up you can see a small hole above the wheel
Cut the connector off the end of the fused positive lead and from the engine side pass it through this hole. Pull the wire through as much as you can.
10. Facing the wheel arch have a look around the 10o'clock position. You'll see a cable coming out, this is the bonnet release cable coming from the drivers footwell.
With a bit of patience and maybe a screwdriver you can push your red wire through the rubber grommet so its inside it along with the bonnet release cable. It should appear in the drivers footwell.
11. Pull the red wire through - its not long enough is it?! Youll need to use the yellow wire you clipped earlier and join it up using bullet connectors.
12. Connect your extended positive wire to the ACC live you identified earlier using a cable lock connector.
Test everything again.
Now to put your lights on:
The reason I suggest the LED lights above is because on the Coupe SIII there is a 6-8mm gap under the headlight cluster and these lights fit very well under that gap!
1. Unscrew and unbolt the cover at the front of the bonnet - no idea what its called but here's a picture:
2. Remove each light cluster by unbolting three 10mm bolts
3. Lift it up out of the way and check the positioning of your LED lights. Lay down your adhesive tape or glue and stick your LED's down.
4. Replace the headlight cluster carefully. Put some force on it to push it down against the LED strip to really anchor it in.
5. Repeat for the other side.
Now tidy up your cables using cable ties and routing them around the engine bay.
Put everything back together and test.